Everybody hates going to the dentist. 51% of civilized society dreads a visit to the gynecologist, while the other 49% lies awake in anxious anticipation of the next day’s prostate exam. Tax day is also really shitty. Ditto the first of the month, for the rent-paying populace. Nobody gets off on getting their car booted or landing their sneaker in a fresh pile of dog shit. Pregnancy scares are also kind of the pits. Same goes for finding a pube in your polenta.
All of the afore-mentioned aggravations are nothing, I tell you, NOTHING compared to a visit to Berlin’s Ausländerbehörde. This is the meat-packing plant in which they process the city’s foreign residents.
The building lies on a remote tract of land inaccessible to all public transportation, thus allowing refugees the cleverly ironic exercise of hiking miles to apply for aid or shelter. In a city full of architectural wonders like self-hydrating moss farms on roofs that cool temperatures and insulate from sun damage, and self-cleaning windows and toilets, Berlin’s city planners have really outdone themselves in trying to recreate a real “third-world-feel” in the Ausländerbehörde. The waiting room walls are stained and rotting, decades-old garbage is still caked to wastebins, therefore creating a stale and fishy odor throughout the dark, damp hallways, perhaps meant to create the nostalgic aroma of an old, unclean vagina in whatever ethnic groups might appreciate that sort of thing. At least in the women’s bathrooms, there are neither toilet seats nor toilet paper. What there were, of course, were browning, cracked posters of grinning teenagers with Farrah Fawcett hairdos, encouraging me to visit KadeWe.
This was my fifth trip to the Ausländerbehörde, however it felt like the thousandth. The first time I went, in September of 2002, I was put in the “white line”…a disturbing classification system that separated immigrants from such countries as Australia, Iceland and then-Estonia from residents of Africa, the middle East and most of Asia. The latter group, of course, formed the “brown line”. Our orderly, pale-faced cue moved along swiftly and without incident, while we watched the unfortunate members of the other line stand for hours amid screeching babies, and the wheezing, hacking elderly.
After America invaded Iraq, U.S. Citizens were unceremoniously, and I believe somewhat vindictively reassigned to the “brown line”. This I discovered on my third trip to the Ausländerbehörde, in March of 2004. That time, at least I got to watch a middle –aged couple from Togo make out for about seven hours straight.
Once I started working for a living in Germany, I became eligible for appointments, that is to say, a specific arrival time and location dictated by the immigration officials, that should theoretically yield a shorter, smoother, and less pungent experience.
During these appointments, immigrants are separated by first letter of last name. The Si-Z lady is actually pretty nice. She chain-smokes like, and employs the same eye-makeup philosophy as the aged Bette Davis. She usually just takes a look at my documents, grunts, and passed them on, now yellowed and reeking to the sticker-in-your-passport office.
Not every appointment experience is quite so charmed, however. I know for a fact that the woman responsible for the letter D (and to be sure, most people who work for the Ausländerbehörde) is a vitriolic Xenophobe. My heterosexual life partner was tragically squeezed out of Berlin, due in part to the efforts of this dragon.
See, Ol’ Smokey doesn’t really give a shit, (thank Jesus), but most immigration-processing employees are trained to ask questions like the following, when confronted with a hardworking, upwardly mobile foreigner clutching an application for a work permit: “Why couldn’t a German do this job?”
For us expats, it’s a difficult question to answer. We come up with shit like: “My translation skills are necessary for this contract.” or “I’m the only girl willing to do DVDA in this whole uptight country”. What we really want to say is “This employer couldn’t find a German willing to wake-up, bathe, leave the house and make it to work before noon.” and “even if they could, their wage wouldn’t beat what that German is getting from the government to write poetry and snort crystal.”
Anyway. A few months ago, I got an unexpected letter from the Ausländerbehörde, announcing an appointment that unfortunately would fall during my time in the U.S. this summer. I called them and frantically begged to change the time and date.
They offered me October 2 at 7:00 A.M. The meeting would precede a rehearsal with full chorus and soloists on the Komische Oper stage at 10, and a full run-through of the Butterfly at 2. Fucking tight, in any case. So, I woke up at 5 in the morning on the day, after having hauled all of my bank documents, insurance forms, former immigration receipts and work papers up from Stuttgart the day before, and set out on the long journey to that most detested of places.
At around 6:30, while walking a desolate, uninhabited stretch of industrial wasteland, I caught my first glimpses of the Ausländerbehörde, rising gray and ominous like the death star, above the canals. While I waited at the “people with appointments” door, a fist fight broke out between a young-ish Turkish woman who’d cut in front of an older Romanian man, in anticipation of the building’s opening at 7.
While being batted around between four separate offices, I couldn’t think how grateful I am to be in possession of the big three important traits, as seen by Germans controlling immigration. Germanlookingness, the ability to speak German with as little accent as could ever be asked of an immigrant, and a talent for feigning unbelievable amounts of undeserved gratitude.
At around nine, and about twenty minutes after a short shouting match with a small Thai woman that told me to “shut the fuck up”, I was called into a dingy, water-stained office. The Si-Z lady was no where in sight.
“Ms. Steier, it appears you’ve been able to work in Germany now for about three years.”
“That’s right.”
“Well then, you don’t really need a work permit do you?”
“No, not really.”
The man and woman in the office appeared perplexed. “Well, why are you here?”
I felt like vomiting. “Well, you people sent me this letter, see…”
“Yes, that seems to be true. There’s just not really anything we need to do with you just now.”
The room was spinning. I had been awake for over two hours when the sun had risen that morning. My chorus would be arriving at the opera just then…”could you at least extend my visa?” I sputtered.
The woman looked at my passport. “No Ms. Steier. There’s still too much time left on the one you have.” She pushed her large glasses up her wide nose some, “It looks like you’ll need to come back in twelve weeks.”